Відео

Abit late to the video but people now are doing everything they can to keep retro gear going. Myself I have 4 Amigas 1 of which had issues on a board level and another had a dodgy floppy drive. All working now although cosmetically they need some love.

Toni Tomar en 1996 dejó un archivo en Aminet: Floppy_fix.lha con las modificaciones que había que hacer en los Amiga 1200 de Amiga Technologies / ESCOM. Hay que añadir un diodo 1N4148 entre el pin 1 de conector externo de la disquetera y el pin 10 del conector interno de la disquetera.

Thanks for this. I was troubleshooting a similar problem although it happens from high CPU activity, not hard drive activity, but the issue is similar but more a bit more severe, video goes wavy and occasionally jumps but only happens during moments of load. It's also a 1D.4 board, so now I'll be doing a similar troubleshooting routine. Your video made me look at the issue differently, thanks.

It's really a shame we've not seen more content from you! I noticed that you made private a number of your videos too. You are an amazing, talented guy! I hope the trolls didn't get you down. I value everything you passed onto us that we watched over the years and hope that one day you return to do some more videos! Wishing you the very best!

i thought the bias resistor was open.. and it actually was a good diagnosis

Bro are you still alive? 😢

what's happen to the channel?

In passato mi sono imbattuto in una motherboard A1200 escom.questo video spiega perché quando ho scollegato il drive escom e ho collegato il drive chinon commodore,andava solo il click del drive,nessuna attività sul dischetto

Many films from this chanel are now private including CD32 laser calibration😢 Very usefull tutorial. To bad that creator do not respond about break on chanel and removes old ones.

We really miss you. Any chance you can make your CD32 video public again? Thanks. ua-cam.com/video/lZK3Rmerg1I/v-deo.html

Where can i found the drive tester? In adf please!!! 🎉🎉🎉

Where can I buy this type of Switch/Trigger?

The 1A was an advanced engineering prototypr that came out in September 1992. The A1200 didn't launch until October 1992 in the UK. Oh well at least 1A has a full 44 pin clock header which was either cut down by half or non existent on later models. What's the possibility to do a pencil mod to cut back these resistors without having to fiddle about with SMT workstations possibly damaging the board in the process.

That’s nuts!

Hi where you get schematic and that double sided tape. Some links for parts does not work. Please make a video about different techniques for soldering and desoldering. Thanks for your videos.

Hello RetrogameModz, hope you are well, and still reading our comments, I have a usb floppy drive that only reads Double Density Disks most of the Time, sometimes it can read High Density disks, but only in rare cases, I tried to clean the left switch that detects the hole in the right side of the disk, but it doesn't work not even a nibble, I hope I can get a Little help from you.

Brilliant, allowed me to use proper Amiga drives not the converted PC Escom variety. Much more versatile.

😂🤣😂😂🤣😂🤣

I didn't have any issues with distorted audio so i check my (unmodded) A1200 rev 1A and it has 681 resistors. Maybe they realized the issue earlier than we think

hello i have this horizontal line follow disk image but much thiner and lighter - what can cause this problem 0:48 ?

Bravo

I have a video problem with my A1200 rev 2B. Black screen. I'll try and see if there is any video through RF.

Which you would come back. You are a repair icon.

i’d wish you’d come back

Old Video, but still actual! ;-) It brings me to the solution with my board... Resistor in the +12V line was broken... Now he can make NOISE like a new one! Thank you for inspiring!

Still about? What specific version of Protracker are you using? I've a 1200 with similar problem and all versions of Protracker I've tried so far don't have that colour slider version. Blue is somewhat dim on my 1200 and there's a dark horizontal band when showing fine checkerboard (from Amiga TeskKit)

hilarious

Yeah......you v done great job Sir... I like your approach...thanks v much.Sir

Awesome vid. Nice explanations. I might have a similar issue. I hope so bc my video port seems to be dead!

may i use only tantalum caps, except power supply section?

and what about 2B?

^_^ ending ->

How come you got a signal from B7 on the oscilloscope when the slider was halfway and upwards but no indication on the probe? It made sense that that the most significant bit was the problem since the intensity reset at exactly halfway, but then the oscilloscope should show a signal? Also can't quite understand why B3 was constantly on from halfway and upwards, expected it to flip twice as much as B4 and half as much as B2?

your name is James?

My Amiga A600 only displays a purple screen.

Luckily I have A1200 with Rev 1D4 motherboard.

ta da!

I have a slightly similar problem. The pin on my RGB port which supplies the +5V signal has half broken off! This means that the TV won't switch into RGB mode, it's stuck in CVBS mode. I'm using an RGB to SCART cable. What can I do to fix this? I'm not much good at soldering. Can you do a video which would cover it?

5:12 what you came for.

I would have had to straighten that audio jack that's twisted to the right, it bugged me every time I saw it in this video. Other than that great video and troubleshooting!

Hello. Which logic probe would you recommend?

Old video, still gold :D Thanks!

A pleasure seeing a professional at work

So it's 2020 now, and I've found the same model in a dumpster... Opened it, and it looks just the same, so I'm about to do just the same... ;) Thanks for your Guide! Does it work without a remote? Because mine came without one...

Can I send you my Amiga 600 for repair?

The fix ESCOM did made a diskdrive work that will not work any more with your fix. The swapping of disk will not work for the drive.. i moved the ESCOM modding to the diskdrive and jump wire the ready signal as you show in the video. Still need to look for a good fix so all sofware works as it suppose to do with the diskdrive.. Maybe a transistor that is controlled from the sel0 line to short the connection between diskchange and ready signal or use diodes. problem is that a low signal is needed to control the lines. If i short the disk change and disk ready signal, my second drive will not work with disk swapping any more. I short the signal inside the drive and removed the ready signal going out the drive..

Absolutely brilliant. I learnt so much here. Thank you

How do you not have more subscribers? Your videos are great! I like seeing this level of detail in soldering, motherboards, components, etc. I've never seen what a board looks like under the components until I watched your video with that Amiga where you had to fix pads and traces.

Are they using 2x 4-BIT outputs for each colour channel? I figured it was BIT 7, but BIT 3 behaving the same (dropping to 0 at the half-way mark) was a surprise. Although, if mid-way is where BIT 7 comes on, you'd expect everything to go to 0 at that point - 01111111 -> 10000000. Actually, I'd expect BIT 3 to go up and down a bit more frequently. I'd expect BIT 6 to come on just before half-way, turn off at half-way and then come on just before full. Perhaps it was a sampling latency problem, and the slider motion defeated the accuracy. Another thought: B0 = BIT 0 B4 = BIT 1 B1 = BIT 2 B5 = BIT 3 B2 = BIT 4 B6 = BIT 5 B3 = BIT 6 B7 = BIT 7 Kind of interleaving the bits across the pins, which would explain the behaviour I observed. Interesting.

Which revision is the escom mother board?